This Much Support!
OR
Sitting in a Café in Calcutta, Bitching about Delhi!
parts I& II
My stay in Delhi during the last 6 months of 2010 (and the most unfortunate 15 young days in 2011) is coloured by—perhaps I should use the word mar rather than colour, since I really want to bitch about it in this missive—so many different variables, diverse, unexpected, disastrous and at times quite disgusting varieties that it took me exactly 6 LONG months to digest the whole experience in such a way that I finally find myself capable of writing about it! In the innocent animal terminology for this, I suppose I would be chewing the cud or regurgitating, you choose the word option that sounds more pleasant to your, umm, ears!
Another reason to maintain my silence about this has been the fact that if I write what the reality of my stay here has been like, then it may, I have explicitly been told, contribute to the negative sentiment that my be out there against this country! Well, while that is not and has never been my intention I cannot be but honest—and at times with a pinch of irony and a bit of laugh to make the whole situation bearable—in reflecting on what I went through and felt. There is an urge in me to write and share but at the same time there is a force that has so far ever so successfully stopped me from writing all these funny, sad, splendid and at times simply ordinary moments…
I am going through a Tintin-esque moment actually—if such a term exists at all (if it doesn’t, well, now it does)! Which shoulder to turn my head to and which voice to listen to??? I am sure you remember the famous Miloo/Snowy, Tintin’s dog who always had a hard time choosing between his two inner voices of good and evil, represented by an angelic conscience-dog and a red devil-dog hovering over his two shoulders! I feel exactly like that poor creature at the moment and am not sure which voice to listen to. There should have been a third conscience dog, a naughty one, to whom I could have listened all the time, with no guilt or remorse!
Anyway, almost at the end of the 6-month fellowship and I am still here to tell the story! Triumphant and alive, and (surprisingly still) breathing against all odds—or rather against all those polluting agents floating in the troposphere of Delhi—and towards the last few hours of this ominous fellowship, I have also braved my pen—well in this case the keyboard!—to boot!
I have to give the credit for such inspiration to the place that invited me in the first place and awarded me the honour of this blessed fellowship! I have to praise the level of support I have received here as a fellow! Did I tell you what forced my hand to sign this contract with Mephisto (had no clue that the guy lived in Delhi!). Up until July of 2010, my belief was that Mephisto was a German fellow who got on Faust’s nerves and the rest is a long and boring morality play! Umm, I digress. Do forgive me, I should have started with this initial and vital piece of information, rather than rambling on about insignificant issues, such as the level of pain and my frail and disturbed digestive system and so on and so forth! My absent-mindedness is all due to the habits I have picked up through osmosis from this ever-nourishing environment. One of the very first lessons I learnt was: if you (dare to) wish to carry a conversation, you always start from the middle, and in such a way that no one knows what exactly you are talking about. This will make it easier for others to butt in at any point, and that too with absolutely irrelevant incursions. Because, they do it any way, so why bother to carry on having a coherent conversation. You see, the logic works perfectly! Anyway. We were talking about my contract and how the German play was actually an Indian one and it was I who didn’t know!
It all started about a year and a half ago when I felt the absolute need to get focused and finish my book and start on an important line of research that had turned into a nagging demand in the subconscious of my academic life and my income level! So, I looked heaven and high to see where I can find a supportive fellowship that would accommodate my rather humble needs for a short period of time, i.e., a 3 to 6 month residency and/or fellowship. Found one that could work for me in terms of time schedule and familial planning, rather smoothly. My husband was supposed to be in Delhi during his sabbatical in the second half of 2010 and the fellowship I found could complement that and allow me to be in Delhi—whence the familial planning –thus providing me with an ideal time/situation to finish my work. That is how my relationship with JNIAS—even typing these letters sends a shiver down my spine, which actually is in pain because of months of sitting at a chair that is more of a high chair and a desk that is more a coffee table! Back to JNIAS. This acronym is a short form for the much larger of Jawaharlal Nehru Institute of Advance Study—another misleading factor here is that there was no mention of Germanic legends, plays or even Faust himself! They are very advanced in their system of support which most of the times boils down to systematic effort in stopping any research and study from being conducted in any form or shape with relative ease. I must give it to them and be fair to their advanced-ness!
Where were we? Oh yes, so I got it… the fellowship that is! I was happy, my husband was happy, my Head of the Department in the UK was happy, my CV was happy and I kept thinking about the next REF (Research Excellence Framework—ok, you are not supposed to know every acronym that is out there, are you?! Just to give you a clue, in the UK this acronym decides what my rank and salary would be like in the next 4 years based on my level of success in begging for money and selling myself as a scholar, researcher, educator, and artist! Whatever…) and those few extra pounds (not of flesh, but sterling!) that would be deposited into my slim bank account. That account is the only slim element in my life at this time and unlike other fashionable slim things, I am not at all proud of it and tend not to discuss it in public! However, if it was my waistline—alas it isn’t—I would have written pages upon pages about it. Sigh….
So just before our departure there was a sense of jubilation at the department, because I had received two fellowships—I shall not be talking about the second one here. That is a whole different story that concerns me and my husband, who happens to be a colleague at the department. I know, quite convenient you may say, but I say, you know, there would be less spice to the element of gossip, which is one of the fundamental ingredients of academic life! Things can get really boring!—and my colleagues were telling me that I will come back with finished projects, that I need not worry about marking and other sundry admin duties. I felt for a few days like an enviable celebrity, thinking Delhi, the capital, is full of computer and cyber geeks, which means we will have high quality internet connectivity and all sorts of digital access at the top notch university of India, JNU! I should have guessed that Indian geeks are all living outside India or are mainly born to Indian parents who have already left India and therefore only look Indian—perhaps that was the reason why nothing, almost absolutely, quite certainly nothing really worked the way they should have! In fact, the person who, after 2 weeks of wonderment, helped us with our computer issues was this Pundit jee (whose real job, you expect, would be to sit down all day long and recite from the Hindu scriptures for the salvation of others... but again, wrong!) who apparently did not have any formal education, and most definitely not in networking and/or in the realm of the word wide web. So, we ended up with a Pundit-geek who guessed and consulted the universe and the stars for fixing our electronic and cyber issues. Not bad to start with, eh?
Way before such illuminations were thrust upon me, back in the UK, I was still in preparation mode. To make myself adequately compatible with what I thought (ever so naïvely, now that I am thinking…) their level would be, I undertook a massive preparatory project: digitising almost all my references and bibliography, scanning them into neat e-files in my India folder, some times working all night long…. It took me a good part of 15 days to finish all the scanning those endless pages in a tiny scanning room we have at our university, cramming them into a slim CD. I was so ready to hit the ground and write!
Not privy to all this, we landed in a pre-Commonwealth Games New Delhi—we will get to the subject of Commenwealth Games later on—and were brought to the JNIAS building and our two rooms. Here, I need some visuals to help you understand the depth of our experience. You need to somehow see exactly what the expressions on our faces were like, upon entering the rooms and exploring them! Since there are no visuals here to support my confessions, I have to assist your imagination and wistfully hope that you are blessed with an overactive one! Suppose that you hate the taste of sour lemon in your mouth—I realise, that might be a bit challenging for some of you out there. I for one love anything sour, so such a task would be strictly against my constitution. But for the sake of writing and creation and arts and… oh, whatever…, just imagine, ok? Good. Imagine that someone suddenly without your knowledge has shoved the better half of a large lemon into your mouth and is squeezing it firmly, so that you get all the sour juice on top of the bitter taste of the zest. Ok, now go and take a look at your face in the mirror. I hope the result is a completely squished face with all sorts of lines cracking from around the eyes, mouth and cheeks. The face should be so pressed that your facial muscles start to hurt. That is exactly how we looked like and felt at that revealing moment of discovery in our JNIAS rooms.
The room that they had prepared for a 6-month long residency of a single (more than often a western foreigner) scholar consisted of a large and big bed with two pillows—the pillow, generally a very individual item, at JNIAS is a collective one—in the truest sense of the word). It was through an intimate, nocturnal experience that we found out that we are not exactly alone in that bed. In fact we, along with our fellow crawling pillow-mates were enjoying a historical palimpsest of marks left by other occupant over years, if not decades. One thing that has remained a mystery to this day is the fact that how come there were urine stains on the pillows that were mainly used by fellow adults! As far as I could remember, it has always been, or at least till that illuminating moment of discovery, that babies would pee on things like pillows and cushions; a joyous infantile experience that I am sure we all have witnessed or even, perhaps, contributed to! Since we really cherish our privacy, and as much as we would like to be sociable, we came to this realisation that having historical palimpsests on our pillows was a bit too much for us! Hence, the immediate and urgent purchase of 4 new, soft and shining and, of course, non-palimpsestic (!) pillows with no history or traumatic past attached to (or living in them) was on order. Finally, with our nocturnal privacy and comfort restored, we expected to enjoy a better quality of our now modern life!
Historical values seemed to be cherished deeply at JNIAS. There was this odd-shaped desk on which sat a computer belonging to the middle-ages, covered with 5 millimetres of dust. It usually took the computer about 30 to 45 minutes to wake up and run and then opening any internet page (if you were lucky to have any success in getting online at all, that is) would normally take anywhere between 10 minutes to 1 hour. Downloading was of course a function that we tried to forget and only talk about occasionally, as a matter of nostalgic yearning. Some folders where in Russian, some German and few in French, dregs and traces of previous fellows who once upon a time visited and had stayed in those hallowed precincts. This, of course, I am sure you realise, strongly supported our theory of “history fetish” at this blessed place. Soon we decided to give up on our computers and donated them to our Pundit geek, who in turn dumped the poor machines in a storage room with a broken window, facing the forest… nonetheless carefully tagged and I wonder at times if they will be resuscitated at some future date!
Among other furniture pieces that stood waiting for us in our room were a flimsy coffee table, two chairs and a two-seater, with living things in their cushions (no surprise given how their cousin pillows were!)—this last piece of information was a later discovery that of course required a few hours of sitting and the exposure of the warmth of our backsides to the cushions. After discovering bite marks and all sorts of rashes on our thighs and bottoms did we come to this realisation that we were, indeed, blessed with roommates, and that too, carnivorous ones! This notion of the collective within our living environment is an important factor that most of us have forgotten to consider! I mean, what is wrong with sharing with others and enjoying the company of others around you 24/7? While I can see the virtue in that, somehow I fail to see the virtue in sharing my blood with some blood-sucking insects who do not have the courtesy of coming out to at least say HI to those of us who are visiting their country! You know what I mean? What is happening to our world? I must tell you that I have little tolerance for any form of impolite behaviour and since these little creatures rubbed me the wrong way, I went ahead and purchased many carcinogenic insect sprays and attacked the cushions with 4 cans. I think I picked up some of the content of the cans myself—the value of sharing I was talking about—while feeding my new roommates. After refusing to sit on any surface that is not either rock or covered with layers of newspaper, I realised that we need to buy some throws which apparently are softer than rock and do a better job than newspapers in posing a barrier between the stings and our helpless, innocent posteriors—at least the white throws we later bought did not leave the mark of newspaper headlined on the back of my trousers!
Oh, how I love my throws! I bought them from this dangerous place called Fabindia! The way it works is very much the way the Swan Lake works. This is yet another point that I did not know! All my life, even when I was a student of classical music at the conservatory since the age of 5, I was told that Swan Lake has its roots in Germanic or, as some believe, in Slavic legends. I had no clue that it was actually an Indian fabrication by no other than Fabindia! I’ll tell you why—when you go to a Fabindia store, a well-dressed and smiling doorman opens the door for you. Immediately, you feel special. Right at the door there are many displays of some majestic silk material with legendary prints on them that you would probably make you doubt if you are actually at the right place! Then you remember that you have to calm yourself down and buy something that you can put between yourself and your blood-sucking roommates. So you start to roam about. In no time, you will completely forget why you were there and want to posses almost every single item they have on display and, of course, they have more than millions of beautiful objects of desire to lure you and take you farther away from your one and only requisite, that simple cotton throw! From handmade silk purses to rugged jute or cotton bags, from table sets and bedcovers, from scents and essential oils to cutlery and furniture, all and all are set there to tempt you with their colours, prints, shapes, shades and fragrance. Somehow, an agent of the evil sorcerer has handed you a shopping basket before you knew it—you almost want to own even that over-used shopping basket, it is that cute—and in no time the basket is full of all that you really do not need. Since some items have some price tags and some don’t, and all have MRP or IRP written on them—acronyms that will take you about 2 months to figure out—and you do not carry a calculator to convert those small, tiny, almost invisible numbers to Pounds or Dollars, you are doomed to remain in total oblivion—little do you know that the price of each item that you have chosen requires droplets of blood from your slim and anaemic bank account which is fated to shrink into size ZERO, an ideal shape, but quite unhealthy in more than philosophical terms—until that Tintin-esque moment arrives and you realise that there is a white angelic dog on one of your shoulders who is persistently reminding you: “You were only looking for a throw…” etc., etc. But the shopping bag they have given you is already heavy and one other assistant of the evil sorcerer in sales representative disguise comes and gets it from you to take it to the payment counter for you. The guy behind the cash machine tells you that he will keep your items for you. They are yours! Another representative takes you to where the throws are and you find your breathtakingly beautiful sheer throws with off white prints on them. You touch them and they feel you. Ah, what bliss! In that moment of joy and ecstasy, suddenly another sales rep of the evil sorcerer comes to give you the total of you purchase! That is the moment of devastation when you realise that you have gone (way) over your budget and you must abandon your one and only sheer throw. You have been tricked by Odile’s magic and now you must abandon Odette! But how can you?!
I told you, didn’t I! This is all a Swan Lake-ean conspiracy and I call it utter, sheer deception of my throbbing heart! Since I knew the plot, although completely shaken by this revelation—that Swan Lake, like Faust has its origins in India—I was able to put myself together and ask the boy—with a broken heart—to cancel the first order. And then bravely, took the 4 throws I so ardently loved, paid for them and came out. We have been together ever since! This place, this trap that is infested with all sorts of luring items—that are so beautiful, so beautiful and I so badly want them all—is called Fabindia, the cradle of Swan Lake! But since my throws and I have a very understanding relationship, after talking things over and after some time, we agreed that I can (and I did) visit Fabindia quite frequently and ended up possessing some of its finest items. In fact, I got many of their items for my friends and relatives as well. They are all now infected by the Swan Lake-ean fever of Fabindia!
We almost bought a bookshelf from Fabindia, for there was no trace of a single rack of a bookshelf in our rooms at JNIAS. Upon this latest discovery, I was suddenly overjoyed to remember those long hours spent in scanning all those documents. There was a TV set in our rooms with a cable box, which refused to work in the first few weeks—crying for their caretaker, our Pundit geek. The sound level of the TV was either terribly low—so low that you had to attach at least one of your ears to the side speaker and forget about viewing any image—or made you sit back and try to guess and lip-read the Hindi-speaking person on the screen. Oh, and there was another smaller desk in the room with a chair. The chair was bigger than the leg space of the desk and there was no way according to any law of physics that you—or any other creature on planet earth—could squeeze the chair in. So, in order to use the chair and the desk together, you would need to be sitting on the chair and extend your whole upper body towards the desk in order to reach the edge of the surface of the table. Go figure….
At the beginning we did not talk about these things to each other. I was thinking that I am a snob and should not complain, after all there are people living on this planet who have achieved splendid heights with 10% of what was available to us. This was while my husband would think that he should not complain or he would be judged as someone who has forgotten his origin and has turned to a snob, marrying a foreigner! But one day, I think, after not being able to go online for 7 days we started to crack! How did we live before this lovely seductive, lucrative, sexy, smooth and supper speedy phenomenon called high-speed internet connection came into being?